The Filter Debate

What makes the perfect filter coffee? The taste? The ceremony? The speed? The smell? Or does it simply come down to your trust in a machine or a barista? We put the argument to two of Brighton’s best baristas to see what they had to say on the matter…

THE BATCH BREW
Jacob Rubio, Bond St Coffee
Batch brew is becoming increasingly popular in cafes, and with the increase in popularity comes a great step up in the quality of coffee. No longer is batch brew an afterthought; brewed and left in the pot for hours on end, getting old and losing flavour. It is now an exciting and delicious way of enjoying coffee, an alternative to a quick flat white, or a long black.

Baristas can find superior consistency in their brewing, thanks to programmable machines that can store numerous profiles for different coffees. This means they can serve stunning filter coffee day to day, week to week. You no longer need to wait for ten minutes for an average, disappointing pour-over (we’ve all had them). Batch brew is really at the flip of a tap, ready to be enjoyed right away. Many shops operate a high turn around routine for filter so there is always fresh coffee available.

Cafes are incredibly busy environments, and baristas constantly have 1000 things to do. Having someone stop everything to make me a pourover amidst the madness feels like a recipe for disappointment before they have even begun. Next time you are at a cafe that is in the middle of a rush, order yourself a batch brew and watch it arrive to your table in moments. Relax and enjoy a beautifully extracted coffee that is just as tasty if not better than a pour over.

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THE POUROVER
Stevie, 44 Poets

Pourover coffee is about the art, and skill, of hand brewing coffee without machinery. Hand brewing is ritualistic and soothing, yet precise and simple – and this is reflected in the taste of the final cup.

Hand brewed coffee gives the barista total control over grind coarseness, water temperature, pour rate and nothing can beat the human eye and experience for precision. The final cup is an unparalleled reflection of the coffee’s origin and processing and tastes clean, light, vibrant and fresh. Let’s compare hand brewed coffee to a skilled chef working with only the freshest seasonal ingredients and a gas stove – no trickery or gadgets here!

The visual bravado of pourover coffee also impresses and inspires customers to learn more about the coffee they are drinking, engage with the barista, and sneak tips for home brewing. Hand brewed coffee changes people’s perceptions on coffee and this is something at the core of speciality coffee – great hospitality and a personal touch, and nothing is more relevant to this in coffee than a conversation between a barista and customer during the brew.

We have to hold onto traditional brewing methods that differentiate independent coffee shops or we let the automated systems and equipment take over the fine art of brewing someone the perfect cup of coffee. It’s a slow process, but the result justifies the means, and like all good things in life, sometimes you just have to wait a little longer.

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Blend Coffee Co.

The newest addition to the Boundary Road area, and its emerging coffee scene, is Blend Coffee Co. Although technically in Portslade, it is always exciting when new faces enter the Brighton coffee community, and Blend have really hit the ground running.

The decor is beautiful and minimalist, without being cold, and the colour scheme of blue works perfectly with the wooden highlights of the surfaces and shelves. Outside, they’ve turned their seating into a real feature. The space is subtly walled in by wooden planters, and the greenery makes you feel you’re in a private garden rather than the busy Boundary Road.

Blend Coffee Co. serve the always amazing Pharmacie Coffee. Their coffee is light and fruity, with a nice acidity and delicate notes that come through when served as espresso. There are also a range of loose leaf teas available, as well as a number of delicious cakes and pastries. Blend are an exciting prospect, and we hope to see more from them in the future.

Espresso: £2.00
Americano: £2.20
Flat White: £2.50
Latte: £2.60

Mon – Sat: 9am – 4.30pm
Sun: 10am – 3.00pm

Address: 32 Station Road, Portslade BN41 1GB
Website: facebook.com/BlendBrighton
Email: hello@blendcoffeeco.com

Machine: Sanremo Zoe 2
Grinder: Mahlkonig K30 Air
Roaster: Pharmacie Coffee Roasters
Founded: 2018

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Coffee Community: Zephir Thomas

Pelicano has been a mainstay of Sydney Street for a number of years now, but have only recently moved their roasting operation to the site. We spoke to the owner Zephir about how he and his wife, Sol, ended up back in Brighton and why they decided to open a coffee house and roastery.

One of the reasons The Independent Brighton & Hove Coffee Guide exists is that we believe in the values of the Brighton coffee community, those values of local businesses supporting each other, creating an inclusive and friendly atmosphere for staff and customer alike. We were lucky enough in the last year to spend some time being shown around Pelicano’s operation by manager Sam, and we can safely say that these values hold true.

Founded in 2014, by husband and wife Zephir and Sol, Pelicano is a modern family-run business. Zephir runs the day to day operations, and Sol is in charge of all the art and design for the business. Zephir is a “Brighton boy through and through” in his own words, and returned to the town to open up Pelicano after meeting Sol.

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“I met my wife Sol (from S. Korea) on a pear farm a couple of hours from Melbourne, we both had a pretty rough time on the farms, we learnt two things – we hated working for big companies and we both missed working with coffee. We always wanted to build a culture around Peli where we actually enjoy coming to work day in day out, I see so many people working in hospitality and not having a good time – that’s just not what it’s about! Our staff really are our family. At our wedding there was more Peli fam than blood family!”

Everything at Pelicano is done on site. In early 2018, they moved their roasting operation into the basement of their cafe, upgrading the roaster in the process. They roast their house Smokey Bird Blend, as well as a number of directly sourced single origins, in the early hours of the morning on Monday. Each bag is individually hand stamped with one of Sol’s unique designs, then either sent upstairs for retail within the cafe, or hand delivered by head roaster Adnan the very next day.

Pelicano use a refurbished Royal Mail post bike to deliver all their coffee to various establishments around Brighton, continuing that personal, hand crafted touch from the beginning of the roast, to holding fresh coffee in your hand the next day. Pelicano supplies many local businesses and, as well as the coffee, each place they supply gets their own hand crafted, and hand stamped, design on the bag.

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Sol with her hand-stamped coffee bags

Most of the coffee roasted on site, though, is used on site, and you don’t get much more local that your own basement. Pelicano has evolved from serving various guest roasts, to their own roast from a small site in Southover, to the cafe location itself. This ensures that the coffee is at an optimal freshness when served.

In our review, we wrote that Pelicano’s attention to detail was incredible, it was interesting to find out the origin of the decor, “In many ways it was planned to a T and in other ways it was organised chaos,” explains Zephir.

“When we got the keys to the shop we told ourselves six weeks and we’d be open. It took six months! Without a large budget we did all the hard graft ourselves – from stripping walls of 22-year-old grease for 20 hours straight to laying floor boards found off a skip till 4am, it was crazy but with help from a lot of friends we finally opened!”

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Sam’s latte art expertise

With a new roaster in operation, it’ll be interesting to see what the future holds for Pelicano, but we can safely say that with a community focus they’re doing things the right way. We asked Zephir where he hopes Pelicano will be a few years down the line.

“To be honest, I get asked this a lot and the answers always the same: I’m still not sure how we got this far!”

Pelicano House
28 Sydney Street
Brighton

Pelicanocoffee.com

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Water Filtration in Coffee

Words by Lawrence Goozee

In my mind, the most neglected aspect regarding the taste of coffee is water. It is, behind the origin, the most significant influencer on taste, rivalled only by the roast. When home brewing, this explains why all too often your home filter may taste flat and dull, compared to when it was vibrant, acidic and exciting at your favourite coffee shop.

The Problem
In short, the two main components of water which influence how your coffee extracts, and therefore tastes, are calcium and magnesium. Generally speaking, “hard water” is predominantly composed of these two elements. The more calcium and magnesium in the water, the harder it is. This is the total hardness. Hardness for coffee extraction is good, as these minerals extract flavour from the coffee. However, this is true only up to a point. Too much hardness extracts too much from the coffee, resulting in that dreaded flat, dry cup.

At this point, you may be inclined to use home filtration systems, such as the jug styled filters offered. Though, the bottom line is that they treat all water the same, failing to take into account how hard your water is. In short, hard water needs more treatment than soft water. Secondly, they also tend to drop the PH of the water. For the Brighton and Hove coffee drinker; this is not good news.

The Solution
All is not lost. There are solutions!

1 – Use bottled waters which have a total hardness and are optimised for brewing. Whilst I generally discourage buying bottled water, the convenience of using them is appealing. Of the major brands, our favourites are Waitrose Essentials, followed by Tesco Ashbeck.

2 – Speak to your favourite roastery. Whether they realise it or not, the process of roasting is really one of making coffee taste good with a given water. It is very likely that this will differ from yours. Ask them about their water, or, better still, bottle some of their water and take it home with you! In my experience, they are always happy to help you get the most from your coffee.

3 – Make your own water – bare with me! The process is really simple and cost effective. You can buy distilled water and add the components yourself. These recipes can then be tailored to fit guidelines such as those proposed by the SCA (Specialty Coffee Association), or by Water for Coffee (Colonna-Dashwood, Hendon). For more on this, visit baristahustle.com.

4 Support Peak Water; a kickstarter from Maxwell Colonna-Dashwood. These are home style filtration jugs with the sensibilities of far more expensive filtration systems, like that of the reverse osmosis system. This will, by far, be the most cost efficient and most practical way of achieving optimal parameters for brewing. As co-author of Water for Coffee; he really is the leading voice on the matter.

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Trading Post Coffee Roasters (Kensington Gardens)

The latest Brighton coffee shop to spread its wings and add yet another venue is the Trading Post Coffee Roasters, who have opened a new location in the north lanes.

Just like their roastery on Ship Street, this Trading Post offers five different blends, including the Mono Loco blend which we tried, made up of Latin American beans. The espresso had a rich dark chocolate flavour, which made way for a pleasantly tart aftertaste.

From a design perspective, Trading Post have done a great job creating a warm and inviting atmosphere in such a small amount of time. The brown, black, and blue colour palette works nicely with the bare-brick walls. Upstairs, there is a beautiful and cosy space leading to a roof terrace, which is set to open in mid-March 2019, and offers gorgeous views over the hustle and bustle of Kensington Gardens. Outside are a number of seats, offering a great opportunity to people watching on one of Brighton’s busiest lanes.

As well as coffee, Trading Post offers a range of cakes and pastries as well as a hot food kitchen, serving a number of brunch-like options. They also have an alcohol license and serve a number of beers and wines, as well as a number of coffee-based cocktails, such as their espresso martini and Baileys frappe.

A wonderful addition in a definitive part of the town, once the summer months roll around, this new spot will be the place to kick back and enjoy good coffee in the sun’s rays.

Espresso: £2.20
Americano: £2.50
Flat White: £2.70
Latte: £3.00

Mon – Fri: 7.30am – 7pm
Sat – Sun: 7.30am – 7pm

Website:
tradingpostcoffee.co.uk

Email: kensingtongardens@tradingpostcoffee.co.uk
Phone Number: 01273 911 811
Address: 40 Kensington Gardens, Brighton BN1 4AL

Espresso Machine: Faema E71
Roaster: Trading Post Coffee Roasters
Grinder/s: Mazzer Luigi Spa x 5, Mazzer Luigi Major DR, Mazzer DR 100, MACAP MXD Xtreme

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Hixon Green

In the last 12 months we’ve seen an explosion of artisan coffee shops opening in Hove. Only improving the quality on offer in this area, one such new addition in 2018 was Hixon Green Coffee & Wine Bar. As you approach, you’re struck by the vivid charcoal blue of the building’s exterior, with bold white lettering standing out from this facade, reading Hixon Green. Outside, wooden slats line the benches, tables, walls and ceilings, while tiles line the floor.

Once inside, the first thing that takes your attention is the beating heart of the coffee shop, the marble counter right at the epicentre of all the cafe’s working; from their bar to their cakes to their coffee machine, it all revolves around this centrepiece.

The atmosphere inside is peaceful and, once you’ve relaxed into the surroundings, your eyes are then drawn to the ceiling’s features, with metal decor highlighting the impressive chandelier hanging at its centre. Behind the central counter sits their high-end wall of wines, while a wireframe deer head sits on the wall adjacent, hanging over the feature fireplace.

When it comes to the coffee they are only about quality too. Serving Grind’s House Blend, their double espresso offers notes of cacao and marzipan with a big body, before cooling to reveal a cookie-like flavour. A great addition to the Hove coffee scene.

Espresso: £2.00
Americano: £3.00
Flat White: £3.00
Latte: £3.00

Mon – Wed: 6.30am – 10.30pm
Thurs – Sat: 6.30am – 11.00pm
Sun: 6.30am – 10.30pm

Website: hixongreen.co.uk
Email: hello@hixongreen.co.uk
Tel: 01273 770011
Address: 124 Church Road, Hove, BN3 2EA

Machine: La Marzocco Linea PB
Grinder: Victoria Arduino Mythos
Roaster: Grind Coffee
Founded: 2018

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The Flour Pot Bakery (Elm Grove)

Situated about half way up Elm Grove is a cosy little retreat bearing The Flour Pot name. As you enter, the usual treats are on display, from the shelves of bread in the window, to the range of cakes on the counter. As well as the food, the black and white checkerboard flooring, and the little plants on the tables are all Flour Pot trademarks. The design is a winner as it seems to work in both the larger, more minimalist locations, as well as the more cosy, community cafes such as this one.

The Flour Pot are relative newcomers to the roasting scene, but we’re pleased to say that they’ve hit the ground running. There was a nice tartness to the long black we tried, rather than being overpowering, it was subtle, bringing a plum jam, or a black forest gateau to mind. If they grow into their roasting the same way they did their baking, Brighton may have another big hitter in the roasting scene.

We’ve mentioned many times that more and more cafes are opening across Brighton and it is encouraging that there are still many places that are focusing on local communities. It is unlikely that many tourists, or day trippers, will wander up Elm Grove on a day out, but to the local residents, somewhere like The Flour Pot is indispensable.

Espresso: £2.00
Americano: £2.30
Flat White: £2.60
Latte: £2.80

Mon – Sat: 8am – 6pm
Sun: 9am – 5pm

Website: flour-pot.co.uk
Phone Number:
01273 958410
Email: elmgrove@theflourpot.co.uk
Address: 124 Elm Grove, Brighton, BN2 3BD

Machine: La Marzocco AV Linea Classic
Grinder: Mazzer Major
Roaster: The Flour Pot
Founded: 2015

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Pelicano (The Level)

Pelicano has been a mainstay of Sydney Street for a number of years, and now have opened up a second location on The Level. The new spot, just before the entrance to the children’s park, is the perfect spot when the weather is nice as the many benches and south-facing window trap the sun beautifully.

As we’ve come to expect with Pelicano, the design is top drawer. They’ve managed to convert a formally ugly concrete block into something much more aesthetically pleasing. A large part of a cafe’s appeal lies in its atmosphere and the new Pelicano is both warm and cosy.

The other large part of a cafe’s appeal is, obviously, the food and drink it serves. Like the original, this Pelicano offers the Smoky Bird Espresso as their house choice, as well as a number of single origin beans all roasted at their Sydney Street store. Alongside the coffee are a number of cakes and pastries as the perfect accompaniment.

We’re always happy to see new establishments open in Brighton, especially when a place we love expands to a new and interesting location. Once the summer rolls around, we hope that the new Pelicano has proven itself as a popular location.

Espresso: £2.00
Americano: £2.40
Flat White: £2.60
Latte: £2.80

Mon – Sat: 9.00am – 7.00pm
Sun: 8.00am – 7.00pm

Website:www.pelicanohouse.com
Phone Number: 01273 567808
Address: The Level, Union Rd, Brighton BN1 4ZN

Espresso Machine: Synesso
Roaster: Pelicano House Roastery
Grinder: Mahlkonig EK43, VA Mythos
Founded: 2014

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Treacle & Ginger

Upon entering Treacle & Ginger, you’re welcomed by warm and friendly staff, an assortment of homemade cakes on the counter, and a wide variety of work by local artists and creators. From the locally sourced ingredients, to the decoration, Treacle & Ginger is a celebration of local creativity.

The coffee on offer is, unsurprisingly, from the closest possible roaster, the always excellent Pharmacie Coffee Roasters. The espresso is rich and fruity, with the baristas clearly able to get the best out of the bean. It’s always nice when you’re brought water with an espresso, and Treacle & Ginger prove their attention to detail is top notch with their service.

Treacle & Ginger is a relaxing place to spend some time while looking out at the busy Western Road, and the contrast between the hustle and bustle of the outside and the peaceful nature of the cafe is pleasant to experience. If you find yourself wandering into Hove, or live nearby, do yourself a favour and take some time out of a day to experience it for yourself.

Espresso: £2.20
Americano: £2.50
Flat White: £2.75
Latte: £2.85

Mon – Fri: 8.30am – 5.30pm
Saturday: 9am – 5pm
Sunday: 10am – 4pm

Address: 164 Church Road, Hove BN3 2DL
Tel: 01273 933695
Website: treacleandginger.com
Email: info@treacleandginger.com

Machine: Nuova Simonelli Aurelia
Grinder: Anfim Milano
Roaster: Pharmacie Coffee Roasters
Founded: 2018

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